Autumn is one of the most beautiful seasons of the year in the rock towns. During the summer these main rock areas are becoming more and more crowded, but that all changes with the end of the holidays and September, October and November gradually see peace and quiet return to the rocks. Go and see how beautiful those rocks are... not just when the autumn sun is low, but in the morning mists and after a shower of rain. We present a few tips on how to spend an autumn week in the rock towns.
Prachov Rocks – all-day trip
One of Bohemia’s most picturesque sandstone rock towns lies not far from Jičín (7 km, red markers). The shortest way to get there by train is to get off at the Jinolice stop on the Jičín–Turnov route (3 km, following the green markers), taking the beautiful route past Jinolice ponds. There are also relatively large car parks by the two entrances to Prachov Rocks. However, there’s also a place to leave your bikes, and so we recommend cycling or walking there. In the summer you can get here using the special tourist bus services.
There is a fee to enter Prachov Rocks. The rocks are interwoven with marked trails, offering two basic circuits: small and large.
The small circuit is ideal for visitors to Prachov Rocks to take a short, easy walk and get a fleeting glimpse of the main attractions. It’s around 1.5 km long and takes roughly 45 minutes at a comfortable pace.
From the Turistická chata chalet, follow the yellow markers below the majestic towers of the Prachov Needle and Čapka towards the Zadní točenice crossroads. There, turn right and go up the steps through the Mouse Hole – the narrowest point of Prachov Rocks – to the Vyhlídka Českého ráje viewpoint. From the viewpoint, continue to the U buku crossroads and from there follow the main footpath to the Vyhlídka míru viewpoint, from where you can see the central part of Prachov Rocks. From there, continue on to the Nad Císařskou chodbou crossroads. You then descend the steps down through the Emperor’s Passageway to the Zadní točenice crossroads. From there, return to the Turistická chata chalet following the same route.
The large circuit takes more time, roughly two hours to walk the five-kilometre route, but it does give you the opportunity to take in all the beautiful attractions and places of interest at Prachov Rocks. It has more steep ascents and descents and is obviously more physically demanding than the small circuit. However, you’ll have the chance to see pretty much all the accessible viewpoints, including the lovely Leaning Tower, which offers views outside Prachov Rocks, from Veliš, across Jičín as far as Zebín.
Prachov Rocks alone is not big enough for a full-day trip, so don’t forget about these other beautiful places nearby:
Ervín's Castle. From the Turistická chata chalet, walk down following the green markers past Pelíšek pool as far as Maršov, from where a longish ascent will take you up to the Ervín's Castle viewpoint and then on to the Leaning Tower or past the Pechova viewpoint back to the Turistická chata.
Přivýšina and Brada are beautiful places to the east of Prachov Rocks that tend to be less busy. From the top entrance to the rocks in the village of Prachov, follow the blue markers, and then the green ones. If you got off the train at Jinolice, you can finish your day-long trip with the longer circuit after visiting Prachov Rocks.
The ruins of Pařez rock castle lie to the northwest of Prachov Rocks, and you get there from the Turistická chata chalet following the red markers. From Pařez you can continue on following the green markers through Pařezská Lhota to Jinolice ponds for an afternoon swim.
Cycle trip: Sobotka – Trosky – Hrubá Skála – Kost – Sobotka
The circuit we suggest will not only take you through some diverse countryside, but will also enable you to visit the most well-preserved castle, the most famous ruined castle and the most romantic chateau in the Bohemian Paradise, all in one day. The route is 34 km long and follows marked cycle paths, with a total ascent of roughly 550 metres.
From Sobotka follow cycle route no. 4011 through Doly and Troskovice as far as the ruined castle of Trosky. From there, take cycle route no. 4078 down into the Jordánka valley and continue past the Krčák and Vidlák ponds as far as Hrubá Skála. Then take route no. 4015 back down into the Jordánka valley, although this time to Věžák pond. Film buffs are sure to recognise the rock that rises from the water on the other side… Follow the Jordánka downstream, where it joins the larger Žehrovka, which will take you to the Pleskotský mlýn crossroads. Although you’re going left from there, it is worth turning right a few dozen metres along the road to the unique Baker's Gate, said to be the shortest tunnel in Europe. The cycle route then leads on through Libošovice to Kost Castle. From there it’s just five kilometres back to Sobotka, passing the chateau of Humprecht on the way. At the cemetery that you pass as you cycle up to the chateau, you can lay a bouquet of meadow flowers on the grave of Fráňa Šrámek.
Malá Skálaregion
We offer two rather more demanding walks in Malá Skála, which is conveniently situated in the Jizera valley on the Turnov–Železný Brod railway line. On both routes you have a lot of metres to walk up, but you’ll be rewarded with a number of beautiful views. To liven things up, we can recommend riding down the last stretch on scooters. You can order this service in Malá Skála itself or online.
The first route follows the red markers along the Golden Trail of the Bohemian Paradise, past the Pantheon to Frýdštejn (3 km, elevation around 250 metres; count on two hours including stops at all the viewpoints and a look around the Pantheon)
The second route takes you directly in the opposite direction, following the red markers to Besedice (3.5 km, elevation around 260 metres). However, at the Pánovo pole crossroads turn off to follow the yellow markers, which will take you through the Chléviště rock labyrinth and then, after briefly re-joining the red route, you turn back onto the yellow trail that runs through another group of rock towers at Kalich. This walk will take you roughly two hours. You can ride from Besedice back to Malá Skála on scooters, which you have to book, or return past Dry Rocks along a quiet road, although buses do use it. You can also enjoy a beautiful walk down following the blue markers past Dry Rocks.
A relaxing day with some culture
You can spend a relaxing day amidst the hustle and bustle of the summer outdoor pools in Turnov or Mladá Boleslav, or by the river or a pond. You can visit the boat hire at Malá Skála to arrange a canoe trip down the Jizera River. And for those who want to get away from the rock towns for a day and do something completely different, we have galleries and museums. You should definitely visit the Museum of the Bohemian Paradise in Turnov, with its climbing exhibition, or Dlaskův statek farmstead in Dolánky. There are interesting programmes on offer at the observatories in Jičín and Turnov. Children and adults alike are sure to enjoy the Regional Museum and Gallery in Jičín with its museum playroom.
An adventure-packed day
After a relaxing day of culture, you can spend your fifth day in the Bohemian Paradise enjoying some adrenalin sports. The rock towns are likely to tempt everyone to try sandstone climbing for themselves. You could start at the artificial climbing wall in Sobotka, where they’re sure to recommend you a qualified instructor. You can also have a fantastic time at the Vodní brána Via Ferrata near Semily. There are several ferrata of varying difficulties marked out on the rocky slopes of the deep canyon of the Jizera River. You can book yourself an instructor, who will teach you the rules and safe climbing principles. For another spectacular experience you could try a sightseeing flight from the airfield in Jičín, where you can also do a tandem skydive. Another wonderful idea is a hot-air balloon flight above the rock towns of the Bohemian Paradise. For a real treat, go rafting down the Jizera River; you can kit yourself out at one of the boat hire centres. The prettiest and most frequented stretch of the Jizera starts in Malá Skála and ends in Dolánky near Turnov. Looking for other ways to spice up your stay in the Bohemian Paradise? Hire a scooter. For instance, you can head off for a hike from Malá Skála, via Vranov and the Pantheon to Frýdštejn, where your booked scooters will be ready to whisk you back down to Malá Skála without the slightest effort on your part.
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